#Katana velcro full
So if you are planning on climbing lots of ‘edgy’ routes e.g. waist cinch, full length zipper with buttoned storm flap, Velcro wrist and. I find the Katana are excellent for smearing and when newish work well on edges too however once they have become quite worn I find they do loose there stiffness at the toe making them poor at edging. The sole on the Katana’s is really good – hard-wearing and sticky, and the new XS Grip rubber is stickier than the old version vibram. Hence I use my Katana’s on everything from alpine rock to sport climbing. I don't see a purpose to the beginner shoe myself, other than. How much of a toe there is, the cupping of the heel, how sensitive the shoe is, etc. There's more to it than just the down turn. There are also intermediate-aggressive shoes in between intermediate and aggressive. The Katana’s are a good compromise between technicality and comfort – I can wear mine all day on long routes as well as do hard moves requiring delicate footwork in them (the rock boot is not the limiting factor my foot work is). The katana's are moderate/intermediate as in they aren't full neutral. I have used more technical climbing shoes in the past which I could only keep on for about 5 minutes at a time, which meant they were useless for anything other than bouldering I would be unable to stand on anything by the top of pitches due to my toes hurting too much. The Katana’s are reasonable technical boots, but are comfy with the velcro closure and large tabs they are easy to synch tighter for harder pitches then slacken off for easy pitches or undo on belays. I have pretty long narrow feet with ‘big’ big toes, and the Sportiva boots seem to fit the shape of foot pretty well for me a boot that fits is the most import aspect of any climbing shoe. For 5.10 sport I'd personally grab katanas every time.I have owned 10+ pairs of the La Sportiva Katana’s – basically they fit my feet better than any other climbing shoe I have ever had. The katanas will be a bit more comfortable and the miuras will be a bit more aggressive. You can get a similar performance out of both. I've owned miura lace too but found the katana to be much more comfortable.
I sized the miuras a half size down from my katanas, but they fit equally well.
I like them for bouldering, especially on granite. I got them because they were cheap, but they've grown on me. Katanas edge great and are a great all arounder. They also work well for me as a sport onsite shoe, since I'm on the wall for a lot longer trying to onsite and my tighter shoes (testarossas) start to hurt after like 15/20 minutes.
Wouldn't call them a beginner shoe at all.
I call it my "trad" shoe because they are great at jamming, slabs, and I can wear them for longer periods of time, but I've also climbed 5.12 sport in them. I've resoles one pair once and another twice. For me if I size Vapor Vs comfortable they lack support for edging like the Katanas Laces. Vapor Vs are softer and not quite as aggressive I think, more like the old Katana Velcro. The retain there downturn and last a long time as well. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities. Katana Lace is definitely one of the most versatile shoes.
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